One Year an Oregonian!

“Whatever you can do or dream you can, begin it.

Boldness has genius, power and magic in it.”

— Johann Wolfgang von Goethe

Five years ago I first came across this quote and it instantly resonated with me.  There was no way to know that I would very soon be falling in love with the state of Oregon and thus begin my quest of calling it home.  It took hard work, a little luck and 2,082 miles of driving but it happened, I realized my dream, and have now been an Oregonian for an entire year. Oregon and the surrounding areas of the Pacific Northwest are truly magical. Most of my weekends are spent exploring and there seems to be a never-ending supply of places to go. I have explored mountains, rivers, coastal beaches, waterfalls, all kinds of parks, wilderness and so much more.

Throughout my adventures this past year, my favorites may have been on the Oregon coast. No matter how you choose to get there from Portland, the drive is remarkable. I’ve developed a specific playlist for the drive via Highway 26 that I begin to play as I ascend the Oregon Coast Mountain Range.  The songs narrate the twists, turns, ups and downs through the towering trees of the Tillamook State Forest perfectly. If no stops are made and you continue south onto Highway 101, Twin Rocks, Oregon will begin to play as you arrive in Rockaway Beach – home of the infamous Twin Rocks that were the icon of my Oregon dream for the years leading up to my move. Watching the sea grass sway in unison with the wind at sunset while the ocean waves crashed upon the Twin Rocks as an official Oregonian was a special moment for me. Sometimes I like to just sit on the beach and watch the world go by:  young and old couples walking side by side holding hands, women walking solo enjoying the solitude of the ocean, men playing with their dogs, families building sand castles and flying kites, kids running into the ocean waves and quickly running back out again as the cool water gets a little too high on their bodies for comfort, and surfers paddling out to find the perfect wave.

Surfer at Indian Beach, Ecola State Park, Oregon

I've watched perfectly blue skies slowly transition to a brilliant rainbow of ever-changing hues during sunset in Bandon before fireworks exploded, shaking the cliff I stood upon, high above the ocean on the 4th of July. I’ve climbed steep coastal cliffs barefoot in Cannon Beach as mud squished between each toe. I’ve gazed in awe while eagles swooped down over the ocean on Indian Beach and elk slowly munched plants in Ecola State Park, seeming to pay no mind as I watched.  I have to admit it was the best nature show I’ve ever seen. The fog seems to have a mysterious personality all its own in the Pacific Northwest.  The way it creates laser beam-like rays through the forest trees at Ecola State Park is unforgettable. I've visited an abandoned shipwreck that enjoys a second life on land as curious visitors pose alongside for photos at Fort Stevens State Park. I've seen Thor's Well suck in the cool, Pacific waters and Spouting Horn push it right back out in Cape Perpetua. I've seen the way lighthouses send out a beacon of light in the night, momentarily illuminating the way before passing on by only to come back around, again and again. I've stood high upon the towering edges of Cape Disappointment while deer bound through the grassy edge as if the possibility of falling hundreds of feet below to crashing waves were nothing to fear. I've watched clouds circle around the eye of a storm as it approached land in Oceanside before heading up to visit a tree shaped like an octopus at Cape Meares State Park on my 35th birthday. I've seen water glisten off sparkling sand while wind-rippled dunes stood nearby at Neahkahnie Beach. I've heard mussels snap their threads as I walked on by at Neskowin Beach. I've watched seagulls ride the wind like kites, sometimes gliding while other times they appear to float completely still in the Samuel H. Boardman State Scenic Corridor. Perhaps my favorite coastal adventure so far, I've fallen asleep to the sounds of the ocean after watching the sunset while beach camping on the central Oregon coast.

Paradise, Mount Rainier, Washington

The mountains and forests in the Pacific Northwest are truly enchanting. I've seen the most beautiful shades of moss, from velvety, emerald to shaggy, sea foam green, grow on everything that doesn't move, and even some things that do. I've stood on a fallen tree bridge over the Old Salmon River while crystal clear water rushed below over brown, orange, white and black stones before wading through the cool, mountain fed water while a family of ducks rode the rapids downstream. I was overwhelmed with child-like joy when a newt swam into my hand at Lost Lake, high upon Mount Hood. I've peered out from behind a waterfall at Silver Falls State Park and seen mist continuously swirl in the air through a meadow, like smoke rolling off a fire, at Tamanawas Falls. I’ve walked through the abrupt change of dry, hot summer air to cool, mountain air that hugs the river at Little Zig Zag Falls. I've seen the setting sun's rays as they cast shadows on canyon walls at Cottonwood Canyon and tumbleweeds roll over desolate roads that double as cattle trails near the Painted Hills. I've seen hundreds of caterpillars covering leaves, bridges and trails on a warm summer day in the Tillamook State Forest. I've seen a sea of green blanket the rolling hillsides of the Mount Hood Territory while driving up to Timberline Lodge as the peak of Mount Hood appeared, disappeared and then appeared again, over and over as I drove through the winding mountain roads. I’ve driven inside tunnels through cliffs that stretch to the sky and tower above in the Gorge as the Columbia River flowed by. I've stood on the perimeter of the devastation caused when Mount Saint Helens blew the year I was born.  Perhaps most brilliant of all my mountainous adventures was standing at Paradise upon Mount Rainier and feeling a connection with everything that has ever lived before, during, and after my time, all at the same time, as an unexpected rush of emotion overtook me.  I wonder if the same thing happened when John Muir stood in that very spot?

Washington Park, Portland, Oregon

Living in the epicenter of all this surrounding beauty, Portland, I’ve gazed over the entire city while Mount Hood stood watch from high above at Pittock Mansion. On clear days, I've seen multiple mountain tops in all directions while I simply just ran errands. I've seen sunlight break through the trees and shine a spotlight down to the forest floor as if to say, “this is your time to shine, little patch of earth” in Washington Park. Roses of every color line roadsides, parks, houses year-round.  For this mid-western girl, there is nothing quite like walking past a blooming rose bush in December while thinking of all my family and friends back home hunkered down for the winter to escape the snow and cold. I've watched moody fog creep through the West Hills in Portland during my early morning commutes to work, slowly obscuring everything it touches. I've taken in deep breaths of wood scented air after a light rain; even in the middle of the city, it smells like a forest. I've seen forest trees illuminated by the sun, highlighting every vein and outline of their leaves, gently move from side to side, creating a symphony of sounds in Forest Park.

The Pacific Northwest regularly overwhelms me with it’s beauty, mystery and wonder and I find myself thinking, how can this place be real? All my life, places like this only existed in movies and in books or in travel shows I used to watch.  Sometimes the beauty here is just too much to handle and literally takes my breath away.  I then groan with a sort of wonderful pain that starts in my chest and goes up to my throat because it’s just too much to handle.  At the same time, I just can’t get enough -- I  have found my home, my paradise.  The home that I never knew was missing, but always felt its absence.  The home that I, until stepping foot on the coast for the first time four years ago, never knew was waiting for me.  With so much happening in just my first year here, I eagerly look forward to the adventures awaiting me and Cole as we continue our journey, exploring and photographing the wild places of the Pacific Northwest and beyond.  I hope you'll continue to follow along!

In honor of my my first year as an Oregonian, I prepared the video below to highlight some of the most spectacular places I've been fortunate to photograph on my adventures.

More of my photography at 
Kristin Roosmalen Photography

Change of Plans

Several weeks ago, an old, out-of-town friend said she would be in Portland in early June and hoped we could spend some time together catching up.  That idea morphed into a 5-day road trip vacation, the would-be third of our Oregon adventures together.  We had planned to start our trip with a hike at Eagle Creek in the Gorge and visit to Bridge of the Gods before stopping at Cottonwood Canyon and then spending the night near Hell's Canyon.  The second day would be devoted to exploring the Wallowas in far eastern Oregon before moving on to the Painted Hills and Smith Rock on the third day.  We would explore the Central Cascade mountain range including driving through the McKenzie Pass and hiking to the Blue Pool on the fourth day and then end the trip on the fifth day at Silver Falls State Park.  It was the perfect road trip adventure!!  What actually happened though was something very, very different.  

Chanticleer Point

Day 1 - Wednesday:  While loading a weeks worth of supplies and camping gear into my car, I managed to pull a muscle in my back.  I loaded up on Ibuprofen and hoped that it wouldn't turn into anything debilitating.  We proceeded to stop in at the Toyota dealership for a quick fluid and tire pressure check before heading out of town.  We made a short stop at Chanticleer Point to take in the beautiful Columbia River Gorge and Vista Point view before proceeding to Cascade Locks to see the Bridge of the Gods.  We decided to pass on the Eagle Creek hike after reading that the parking area was known to have frequent car break-ins.  We kept going east on I-84 toward Cottonwood Canyon and decided due to the time, to just camp at their site for the night.  We set up our tent and enjoyed some food before our hike.  It was shaping up to be a glorious afternoon and evening for hiking and photography but before we could actually depart on our hike, my back started to tense up so much so that even standing or sitting was causing me extreme discomfort.  Realizing that I couldn't hike and that a night of sleeping on the ground probably wouldn't be the best thing for my recovery, we decided to head back to Portland for a good rest and we would come up with a new plan in the morning.  On the way home, we made a pit stop at Timberline Lodge on Mount Hood for a cocktail and snack. We got a great table but unfortunately, the clouds decided that we would not get to enjoy the view.  

Cottonwood Canyon

Day 2 - Thursday:  I awoke with my back not much better than when I had gone to sleep the night before.  We decided to take it easy in the morning and just watch a movie.  After resting more, I realized that even though I was in no condition to hike, I was probably up for some lounging on the beach so we decided to drive to coast and try out an unofficial beach camping spot I had heard about.  We carefully followed the directions I was given and were delighted that we were able to find the spot.  Finally, a victory for our road trip adventure!  We set up our tent at the base of a tall cliff and enjoyed the wind protection that the tent gave us while laying on our sleeping bags and watching and listening to the ocean waves.  As the sun began to set, we decided that before bed, we would move our tent up on top of a bluff to avoid any high-tide problems at 2:00 AM.  Even with the relaxing sound of the ocean and the mild weather, sleeping was difficult.  I may have managed to dose off a little here and there but mostly, I did not sleep.  

Beach camping on the coast

Day 3 - Friday:  At first light, shortly after 5:00 AM, we decided to pack up our gear and head into town to use a restroom and grab some hot coffee and warm food.  After getting our fill of both, we decided we would head north along the coast and stop and set up our tent at the first sunny beach spot we could find which turned out to be in Lincoln City. Our sunny spot didn't stay sunny long though.  A heavy fog rolled in and made itself comfortable for most of the day, taking our view down to just about twenty feet or so in front of our tent.  We tried to make the most of it and catch up on the sleep we were lacking but each time I began to doze off, Cole decided that he had something to say about absolutely nothing happening outside.  About six hours of that later, I decided I couldn't lay there any more and we packed up and headed back to Portland.  Once home, my friend realized that she was getting sick. Great.

Cole loves the coast!

Day 4 - Saturday:  We woke up Saturday morning and unfortunately, my friend was not feeling any better.  We decided to run to the Saturday Market so she could pick up some kombucha and then to Sauvie Island to pick up a boat load of fruits and veggies.  Unfortunately, none of these items were helping with her sickness so she opted to hang at home on my couch and rest. Since my back was feeling pretty good, I headed out with a friend to see a movie in Vancouver.  We never made it to the movie but did stop into several places for drinks and food before coming back to Portland to grab some sushi and drinks on NW 23rd.  

Neskowin Beach, home of Proposal Rock (not pictured)

Day 5 - Sunday: With my friend still sick and not up for any adventures and another hot day in the forecast for Portland, I decided to escape the heat and head back out to the coast with my friend from the night before.  We drove west on Hwy 6 and then south along Hwy 101, stopping at Proposal Rock to explore the beach and let our dogs run.  The little creek that normally is higher than I'd like to cross was low this day so we were able to easily cross and explore the other side of Proposal Rock for the very first time.  As usual, the dogs ran around like crazy and made friends with other dogs and people alike.  After a few hours, we decided to head out and continue south along the coast.  We made a food stop in Lincoln City and a coffee stop in Waldport before attempting to explore Driftwood Beach in Seal Rock.  In the rush to escape the heat in Portland, we didn't consider bringing sweatshirts and found the lack of sun, wind and 60 degree temperature to be prohibitive for beach enjoyment. We sat in the car in the parking lot and watched the ocean for a bit before deciding to fight the traffic and head back home to Portland.   

The view from behind North Falls

Day 6 - Monday:  This was originally set aside to be my recoup and prep for going back to work day but alas, my

visiting friend was finally feeling up for some hiking!!  I called up another friend to join us and we traveled along some winding, back-country roads to Silver Falls State Park, located a little over an hour south of Portland. Sadly, due to the 95 degree weather prediction, Cole had to sit this hike out. That did allow us the opportunity to hike a trail that would have been off limits had we had him with us so that was the only upside to leaving him behind. The park and waterfalls were as beautiful as their reputation boasted but the temperature quickly rose to an uncomfortable level and a little over two hours into the hike, we decided to cut it short and head back to the air conditioned car.  

Tuesday morning, I saw my friend off to the Greyhound station to continue her adventure to Seattle and I hopped on the Max to head back to a small mountain of work that awaited me there.  It was sad to miss out on all the fun things that were planned but I did enjoy the time away from work, the opportunity to spend some quality time with my friend and Cole, and even get a couple of decent photos along the way so it wasn't a complete fail.  I'm hoping my trip to Kansas early next month will go a little smoother than this one though.  

To see more of my nature photography, please visit my website here.